File MILK on Beverly Blvd. under L.A.’s Most Useful Fast Casual Restaurants + Sweet Shops. Stopping at Milk makes good sense when you’re faced with a range of appetites and needs. Someone can eat a substantial savory meal while other folks have a major dose of sweets, or both, or somewhere in between. Not since a childhood addiction to classic Carnation ice cream sandwiches have I been gripped with cravings for that specific frozen dairy treat. And while I forever love the cleverness of Coolhaus, I think MILK’s product is superior; ironically, it’s got a lot to do with the better structural integrity. My sammie of choice is the Grasshopper, a confection that shows of an array of green food colorings and things that don’t necessarily exist in nature but taste incredibly delicious.
I haven’t yet determined at what age the kids can have their OWN ice cream sandwiches, so in the meantime I put up with the wheedling for bites and deal with the ensuing squabbles. Generally they’re happy with small scoops of ice cream from the case (blood orange, chocolate, and mint are the usual preferred flavors). In another twist of recent local ice cream sandwich history, my favorite Coolhaus sandwiches have been those with Dirty Mint, a fresh mint ice cream apparently made by MILK that I haven’t seen available anywhere for some time. Go figure.
The general cost of MILK’s OTT high-low approach to traditional American sweets, such as the handmade ice cream bars ($4), the macaron-encased sandwiches ($4.50), and those formidable monster milkshakes ($6-7) seem reasonable, since you’re hard pressed to find better specimens in town. Yet other pricing policies seem kinda wack. An extra 50 cents for a wafer cone? (That’s wafer, not waffle.) No smaller sized kid’s scoop for say, $2.50? I rarely complain about the cost of quality ice cream, but when dinner for four at In-N-Out costs a dollar more than afternoon snack for three at MILK — which is about twice the price of a Scoops stop — it’s hard not to have a head-scratching moment. Doubtful that the lovely Art Deco building’s high fashion pedigree past has anything to do with this. Not surprisingly, that minor hesitation vanishes a few weeks later when I start thinking about the Grasshopper again.
7290 Beverly Blvd., Mid-City
Hours: Monday – Thursday, Sunday 10 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 10 a.m. – 11 p.m.