Plenty at Moore’s Delicatessen, Burbank

by Jessica on June 3, 2011

Kid Hit Menu Items: Sandwiches, waffles, eggs, chicken noodle soup, and the display of Little Flower Company candies at the register should please most who step through the welcoming, interestingly angled door at Moore’s Delicatessen.

Adult Perks: A handful of beers on tap, including Allagash White (AKA the beer I always go for), plus a wine list. That Mazzer coffee grinder is a good sign, and I think I spotted a box shipped from City Bean. A solid City Hall turkey sandwich on rye scratched the deli itch for lunch the other day, while curried chicken arrived set atop a generous bed of mixed fresh greens. (The leftovers of which were improved at home when I added apple cubes; some currants would have been nice, too.)

Pros: Easy counter service, broad menu, plenty of seating in two rooms. The rear dining space is the Palm of Burbank for cartoon freaks, and way more exciting for kids than a Who’s Who pantheon of boring power brokers. Walls are covered in character drawings by animators, whose long workdays and creativity Moore’s helps fuel. Every P.A. within a several mile radius must be very familiar with this place.

Cons: The chicken soup is homemade and indeed excellent, but there’s no matzo ball soup! Moore’s is a daytime place only and closes for dinner. Correction: Moore’s appears to be open some nights until 9, so follow them on Twitter or call to find out.

Changing Station: No

High Chairs: Yes

Parking and Access: Incredibly convenient free parking on both sides of the building.

Other Tidbits: While other cities are being swept up in the neo-deli movement, or some iteration of historically aware, nouveau, sometimes kosher schmosher-attitude Jewish cooking that gets the blogs and food writers buzzing, L.A. hasn’t quite jumped into this fray. The Umami people are working on their Umamicatessen that’s slated to open Downtown sometime this summer. Chef Alex Reznik manages to maintain Kehillah kosher status at La Seine, the La Cienega restaurant that was originally a Tiny Naylor’s designed by Armet & Davis and has been about 100 businesses since. And yet apparently, the coolest of the cool secular Jewish cooks are thinking about pork while poring over their Claudia Roden and Joyce Goldstein books mostly back in Brooklyn and in San Francisco. Here in L.A., this type of cheekily toying with Jewish culinary tradition mostly starts and then abruptly stops at bacon-wrapped matzo balls. (Any other examples I’m missing?)

Moore’s Delicatessen is a deli in quotes — an attempt to update the concept of a traditional deli, with nods to other cultures and trends that L.A. diners have come to expect in a casual restaurant with retro touches and otherwise contemporary, smart, utilitarian design. Sort of like a more modest and better Broadway Deli. Moore’s dark grey building is unassumingly set among Burbank municipal complex and stands out with its cute signage and logo. No naugahyde booths here. You can have yellow lentil dal, chilaquiles, a vegan ginger muffin, prosciutto or tempeh sandwich alongside pastrami and corned beef. There’s ciabatta and rye bread, and a BBQ bacon burger special the day we stopped in. As Jonathan Gold recently wrote, “Moore’s Delicatessen occupies the useful ground between traditional deli and gastropub.” Apparently matzo soup is considered expendable in this hybrid territory. That’s like a full-service upscale burger joint not serving milkshakes, or even dare I say, French fries. At least in this case, the kids won’t complain.

MOORE’S DELICATESSEN


271 E. Orange Grove Ave., Burbank
(818) 478-1251
Cuisine: Deli/American
Price: $$
Hours: Monday – Saturday, 7 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Sunday 8 a.m. – 3 p.m.

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{ 1 comment… read it below or add one }

steve June 5, 2011 at 7:30 pm

All this talk about the re-configuration of the American deli certainly makes me appreciate the four years’ worth of meals I ate at Zingerman’s dating back to my freshman year of college in distant 1992. It’s shocking actually that the rest of the country has taken so long to catch up with what Messrs. Weinzweig and Saginaw have been doing for decades.

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